Rambles Along the EDGE

I took one of my sons out to a German style Christmas feast at a very nice restaurant several years ago. He had spent some time in Germany while in the Army and I thought he might appreciate it.  I was very disappointed when he pronounced it ‘not very authentic.’

What is authentic when it comes to food? There was no bratwurst or sauerkraut on the menu and nothing had a brown mushroom sauce. However, this was a chef born in Berlin and trained in Germany prior to coming to the US. The dishes were prepared with high quality ingredients in styles similar to those learned in his youth. I think it was German.

I can give an example with Mexican food. One of my favorites is Pozole (or posole, as I sometimes see it).

You won’t find pozole in the typical Tex-Mex restaurant that most people, particularly those living away from the Mexican border, think of when they think of Mexican food. This is a dish that will not be familiar to most folks.

The story of pozole is obscure, but some believe that the stew originated with the natives of Tonalá, Jalisco.  The state of Jalisco in Mexico is certainly well known for pozole.  Legend has it that after the arrival of the conquistadores, Tonalá’s legendary queen Cihualpilli threw a banquet in their honor and pozole was served. After the priests found out the secret behind the recipe, a decision was made to change the human flesh for pig’s. Apparently, this change in one of the primary ingredients wasn’t disastrous and Pozole spread throughout New Spain with variations in different regions according to local tastes.

In modern times, pozole is eaten both in Mexico and the southwestern United States, particularly the state of New Mexico. I first ran across it in a small hole-in-the-wall Mexican eatery in south Houston.  The dish is versatile enough to lend itself to a wide variety of permutations. Almost every ingredient change be changed with something else. Of course it changes the taste or the texture of the dish! So? Even the ratio of each of the ingredients can be changed to meet the cook’s personal tastes or the match the ingredients on hand when you begin cooking.

Pozole can be red or white, it can be made with pork, beef, chicken or even seafood. I like a simple quick stir of fresh cilantro just prior to serving, but many cooks serve it with a radish or onion garnish.

I normally use a slow cooker. I lived alone for many years and was able to prep this dish in the morning. I was able to quickly finish when I returned in the evening and enjoy a very nice meal. Although traditionally cooked all day, pozole can also be prepared fairly rapidly and ready within an hour or so.

My recipe calls for hominy. This is the same corn soaked in lye which is ground to make grits for the southern table or used to make the masa dough for tamales in hispanic households. I have used both yellow and white hominy at different times with good results. I tend to prefer a Mexican style brand of canned hominy as it gives a stronger lye flavoring. Many people may object and the milder US brands can easily be used instead. This is the one ingredient that I would consider essential in a pozole.

The enchilada sauce can be either red or green, mild, medium or hot. I think I would go easy on the heat the first time I made the dish though. Just because I’m lazy, I use a canned enchilada sauce. I do try not to get those which are exceedingly sweet. My wife, Jo, raves about her father’s homemake enchilada sauce. Someday, I will have to get some from him to try in my Pozole. I think that it can only be an improvement  over any canned preparation.

Even the onion can be changed. I typically use a yellow onion. It is the most common in my restaurants. A red onion could be used instead, yielding a very different flavor. A white onion can be used, but I would rather not if any other variety were available. White onions don’t seem to stand up well to long cooking times. I would not use a sweet onion, but that is only because it doesn’t sound right to me. If it sounds right to you, please give it a try and let me know how it came out. Cooking is about experimenting with the ingredients available or with different techniques.

You will see cumin in my recipe.  Cumin is a Indian spice. There are a few Mexican dishes that seem to work well with it. You might try various amounts of chili powder instead.

As you can see, pozole can be prepared in an almost infinitely variations in styles.  The original recipe is lost in history. I doubt that my version bears little resemblance to that original. Is it authentic? I doubt that most versions, even those served in Mexico, bear close resemblance either. It’s like the jambalaya or gumbo in Louisiana. Everyone has their own recipe and every one is authentic.  As much as pozole may differ from the authentic recipe, I think most versions would be recognizable as such. Regardless of the ingredients used or the techniques employed, pozole is a dish which is authentically Mexican.

I don’t expect that my son dined in many high end restaurants while in Germany. I was not disappointed by the fact that the food was not authentic. I was disappointed by the fact that he equated his own experience with authenticity. I would certainly be disappointed if I was told that the food I enjoy was not authentic American cuisine because it did not match the bland, tasteless food served in many of the large chain restaurants I’ve been in. What could be more authentic American cuisine than a pulled pork barbeque from South Carolina, a Philly cheese steak sandwich, or a Chicago deep dish pizza? You won’t find any of those a Denny’s, Shoney’s or a Bob Evans!

Pork Pozole

Serves about 6

30 oz hominy, drained
30 oz enchilada sauce
1 large onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp salt
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1 boneless pork loin roast (about 2 1/2 lb), well trimmed

1 cup chopped fresh clilantro
2 Tbsp fresh lime juice

6 ten-in, flour tortillas

1. Mix all ingredients except pork, cilantro, lime juice and tortillas in a
4-qt or larger slow cooker.

2. Sear the pork, turning it with tongs to brown all sides evenly.

3. Add pork to the slow cooker; spoon hominy mixture over top. Cover
and cook on Low 7-9 hours or until pork is tender

4. Remove pork to a cutting board. Stir Cilantro and lime juice into mixture
in cooker. Shred pork into bite-size pieces; return to cooker.

5. Ladle into soup bowls. Serve with, or rolled up in, warm flour tortillas.

Enjoy this authentic Mexican dish! I’m very interested in any major variations to this recipe you may try.